The Wainwright Coast to Coast: Running across England’s Trails

Scenic view of rolling green hills with a winding river flowing through the valley beneath a partly cloudy sky.

Hello wonderful people! Recently we undertook a challenge to run 7 days of the Wainwright Coast to Coast, treading over bogland, scree and clay to reach the wonderful Robin Hoods Bay. 176.5km run, 3,807m climbed and 21 hr 34mins one foot waddled after the other with just shy of £2,400 raised for the Amy Winehouse Foundation. A unique, testing and soul lifting experience that I will divulge below. As always, my camera was by my side and I hope this article gives you an insight into an amateurs journey across the country and the images that greeted our path.

Day 1: Kirkby Stephen to Keld

Map of the trail run from Kirkby Stephen to Keld

First steps were met with both apprehension and enthusiasm, both of which were shortly swept aside by a 400m ascent into the clouds and towards Nine Standards Rigg. There are plenty of theories as to why these small stone mounds exist, ranging from roman boundary markings to former light beacons but no one is entirely sure how they came into existence. I’ve attached a picture below to give you an idea of their beauty. The further we climbed, the further the clouds swallowed us until we were able to view across the green valley below. I’ve attached a picture below from the moss covered shooting hides atop the ascent. The light trickled through as the clouds parted and our terrain changed from scree to bogland. No path was present so a sense of direction from Sarah kept us on the straight and narrow. We hadn’t prepared for the knees to be sunk this deep into the land but it was a challenge we relished. It was only day 1 after all. As the bogland returned to a more solid grassland we were met with meandering rivers reflecting rays from the sun onto the glistening valley side. A fall from Sarah and a short descent led us into Keld and a much warranted bacon bagel. Day one, goodbye.

A person standing on a grassy hill with stone structures in the distance under a cloudy sky.
A river with rocky banks flowing under a cloudy sky, with a hillside covered in trees and greenery.
A person hiking on a trail through green rolling hills under a cloudy sky with dark, heavy clouds.
A small figure walking on a grassy hill under dark stormy clouds with a stream flowing down the hillside.

Day 2: Keld to Reeth

Map with a red line track showing a run route across hilly terrain, with marked elevation points of 668 meters at Rogans Seat and 569 meters at Black Hill, and elevation contours. A table on the left lists split times, paces, and elevations for each kilometer of the run.

Keld waterfalls roused the mornings sore muscles as we took a moment to enjoy water rushing over the rocks before an ascent again into the thick clouds. As we climbed higher the muscles began to loosen alongside the clouds grip on the sky. The soft rain subsided as the sunlight pierced through and enveloped the valleys below us. Time and time again across the 7 days we were fortunate for this to happen as we reached the top of various peaks. It makes the climbs worth every last step when you’re welcomed with a stunning view from the top. The terrain toughened as we began the descent towards the old mines. The earlier shower had matted the rocks with moisture which made for tough going on the ankles. But once deep into the valley, the old abandoned mines gave a feel that time had stopped and been forgotten. Yet the water still trickled alongside the old buildings calmly and unperturbed. The old tracks to the mines still remained in good condition which allowed us to lengthen the strides downhill towards Reeth for some hot chips. Day well spent.

A lush green valley with a small stream running through it, flanked by steep hillsides covered in grass and shrubs. There are ruins of an old stone bridge in the foreground and a person wading in the stream.
A green hilly landscape with a winding river and scattered trees, under an overcast sky.
A woman in athletic gear with a blue backpack standing near a waterfall in a forest.
A person hiking along a grassy trail in a lush green valley with steep hills on either side. A small waterfall flows down the hillside into a stream below. The sky is overcast.

Day 3: Reeth to Richmond

Map showing a running route near Richmond, with a red line indicating the path. On the left side, a table lists kilometers, pace, and elevation for each segment of the run, with starting point marked by a green dot and ending point marked by a checkered flag.

Day 3 threw new terrain at us alongside a handful of challenges for the mind. The day began across farmland, soft and sinking which on ever increasingly tired legs was difficult but we knew woodland was on the horizon and this would feel like the next step on our journey. 12km in, a pit stop for gels and connecting music to the speakers was a saving grace. As we climbed up onto the hillside to enter the forest, the sun peaked through the canvas and all was right once again. Richmond rose in the distance as we stopped to take in the meandering river below us. I think the emotions sinked in a bit. The splits for the last 2km perhaps show that emotion sinking into the legs as we headed down towards the wonderful Richmond. On our travels we were lucky enough to meet a few of the walkers who were doing the same route. Kate and Tom were one of those pairings and we were fortunate to catch up with them in the market square. Lovely people and it rose the spirits at the end of tough day.

A person running on a lush green field with rolling hills and a partly cloudy sky in the background.
A person running through a lush green forest with tall trees, sunlight filtering through the leaves, and a dirt trail.
A woman standing on a grassy hill with a river and green hills in the background, under a cloudy sky.
A street view with parked cars lining the side of cobblestone road, old brick buildings on either side, and a woman in athletic wear running down the street with green fields and a cloudy sky in the background.

Day 4: Richmond to Ingleby Arncliffe

A digital map showing a running route from Richmond to an unspecified point, with a list of split times on the left. The map features a red line indicating the route, with water bodies and several towns labeled, including Richmond, Catterick, and Northallerton.

Day 4, day 4 oh how i’d like to ignore. Alas, I won't. The longest day of the route, the flattest day of the route and certainly the least pleasant smelling. As the miles ticked on, the sensation of muddy farmland and manure ladened fields stuck with us for around 3 hours. I didn't take any pictures on this day which perhaps reflects the nature of what was around us -uninspiring. But once the day was completed we met Kate and Tom in the Blue Bell Inn at the end point. The pub was a sight for sore eyes and an even better sight for sore feet. From here we were whisked away to the Park House Country Guesthouse (I’ll place a link at the end of the article) and Lorraine made us feel incredibly welcome. A hot shower coupled with a cold pint and the days troubles were behind us. The second half of our wonderful team (Ella and Andrew) with us for the journey met us at the pub for dinner to again wash those woes away. I've attached a series of landscapes below from the previous days that I hope will give this day a more uplifting feel.

A landscape of rolling green hills and mountains with cloudy sky.

Day 5: Ingleby Arncliffe to Clay Top Bank

Map showing a running route in a green area, with a red line indicating the path length. On the left, a table lists the pace, elevation, and distance for each kilometer. The route traverses through hills and valleys with some marked elevation changes.

Ella and Andrew greeted us after a hearty full English and chased us up into the woods as we began Day 5. The woods is also a deer reserve, as we strode our way along the first trail the birds sung as 4 small roe deer bounced across the track no more than 30 meters in front of us. We stopped, mouths a gape as the smiles grew bright. No wrong turn or burning thighs could take those smiles away. Having said that, we did make a slight wrong turn (the dip on the map above) but this paved the way to more good fortune. We happened upon a stall selling local heather honey jars. Fortune favours the brave right? Woodland marshalled us for around 10km, only the occasion stream disrupted us as we dug deeper into the North York Moors before the ascents kicked in. And boy did they kick in. Scaling mountain sides kept the mind focussed as each slip or misstep brought with it the potential of a twisted ankle, something tired legs really couldn’t cope with. We both beamed our focus on the stone slabs guiding us up, we almost didn’t notice the view to our left. The last image below was at the very top of one of the peaks. Sarah stands on the edge and is viewing out in the vastness. If you look into the distance you can see the Yorkshire Dales. At this point we had run across the mountain range on the left across to the range on the right and then snaked back across all of the land between it to get to this point. At that moment we both took a breathe and realised what we had already achieved and suddenly the swollen leg joints didn’t feel to be screaming any more. The third picture below was taken near this same peak, the smile still remained on Sarah’s face from the morning. As we trod on we were met for the last descent by Ella and Andrew, true spirit lifters. In the eve, following a hearty dinner at the famous ramblers pub the Lion Inn (thoroughly recommend), we stepped outside and stared up. Enveloped by a clear sky above, the stars glistened back to us. It was a calm moment amongst a whirlwind few days, that ultimately settled the soul for the last few days ahead.

A person hiking on a trail atop a hill or mountain, overlooking a vast green and farmland landscape with scattered clouds and a blue sky.
A person jumping from a small wooden bridge over a creek in a dense forest.
A stone trail leading through a hilly landscape with brown and green vegetation, under a partly cloudy sky with blue sky and white clouds.

Day 6: Clay Top Bank to Glaisedale

Map showing a running route with a red trail near Gleen Side, with elevation and pace data on the left, and surrounding towns like Castleton, Egton Bridge, and Lealholm.

The penultimate day engulfed us with a cold start and a 200m ascent straight into the rainclouds. The first image below was from the top, as the wind swept the rain across the stone path. It felt like a battle had begun and a few early slips on the dampened rocks tested the ankles. Sarah and I ran apart for the morning to give our legs a better chance of running their own race. Following the initial ascent the path merged with the old Rosedale Mineral Railway line. This railway used to transport materials from the Ironstone mine and had been left in a really good condition giving us the opportunity to lengthen the legs.

Sarah and I met on the mountain top at Blakney Ridge and continued together, each others company drove the legs further than our own mental distraction techniques could. Admittedly our marbles were beginning to go so our steps were coupled with mindless chanting to make eachother laugh. The clouds opened up as we began our descent and the path remained very sturdy for the latter 20km of the day. It sounds strange to feel grateful for sturdy ground but with 6 day old legs it was like gold dust to us. On our final 5km we were met by the dynamic duo and every step they joined us really carried us forward. Day 6, nice to know ya.

Landscape with green fields, hills, and a cloudy blue sky, featuring a paraglider with a blue and orange striped canopy.
A landscape view of a grassy hillside leading to a distant horizon under a dark, cloudy sky, with a narrow stone path running through the grass.
A narrow dirt path running through a landscape of brown bushes under an overcast sky.
A paraglider with a blue and orange striped wing soaring above a green valley with rolling hills and a partly cloudy sky.

Day 7: Glaisdale to Robin Hoods Bay

A map showing a running route along the coast, with a detailed table of split times, pace, and elevation on the left side.

The start to our final day was perplexing. The body ached, howled and disobeyed as we both attempted to leave the car. Of all the days I had thought this might happen, the final day was not my bet! After some sensible words from Ella and Andrew we clambered out and were on our way straight into the Egton. As we rustled through the foliage along the riverside we tipped our toes across the stepping stones at Egton (third image below).

As we dipped further down into the valley we entered Littlebeck Wood and the rushing waterfall rushed a sense of detachment across us. Neither wished to run and so we walked calmly through the woods to give the legs a chance to rejuvenate. Alas, this opened the mind up to demons to the extent that one genuinely felt detached from their body. The final day mind games were in full flow. As we looked at eachother we knew we needed to run and cracked out an energy gel. If in doubt, gel.

Reinvigorated and reinvented we climbed above the vintage Grosmont Railway station. A steam train was preparing to set off as we ran through and a steep climbed welcomed us across the tracks. Rain tumbled but this wasn’t followed by tears as a rainbow rippled across the skyline. As we looked towards the climb ahead two familiar faces locked onto our viewpoint. The dynamic duo were waiting to trundle with us. The higher we climbed, the closer the final clay bedded bogland became and with that our knees began to sink deeper and deeper.

At times each step dipped deep into hip high bog. The momentary cold sensation enveloped the ankles as if a healing wrap had been applied, but the unpredictable ground below thrusted the legs back into uncertainty and again we hit a wall. Until we saw the first glimpse of the cliff edge. The first cove accosted us out of nowhere and the sound of the waves lapping the shoreline gave us the final push. 10km of shoreline and we would begin our decent down into Robin Hoods Bay and into the teams welcoming arms. Once we finally arrived, it was straight into the sea for a cool down and a dip. Pride washed over us with every wave.

A smiling woman with earrings and necklaces, wearing a black jacket, standing on a beach with a water and cliff background and other people in the distance.
A smiling man with blue eyes and facial hair wearing a black and white patterned jacket and a multicolored Columbia hat, outdoors with a blurred natural landscape in the background.
A person hiking on a narrow, rocky trail in a dense forest with tall trees and green foliage, sunlight filtering through the canopy.
A person with a backpack crossing a small rocky step on a river in a wooded area with dense green trees and bushes.
Cliffs along a coastline with the ocean below, under a blue sky with scattered clouds.

I hope you have enjoyed reading the above and equally I hope it gives you an itch to run. I shall leave you with two images of the weathered warriors and with the prayer we said each morning that I guess can ring true for life too. 


‘May our paths be clear, may our steps be light and may our smiles be brighter’